If you’re a typical user, you don’t need to overthink this. Over the past year, interest in JDM classics like the 1987 Nissan 300ZX has grown, making it more important than ever to know what separates a solid buy from a money pit. For most buyers, a clean, low-mileage non-turbo model under $12,000 is the smart choice—avoid rust-prone examples or undocumented project cars. How to choose a 1987 Nissan 300ZX comes down to three things: verified maintenance history, structural integrity (especially underneath), and whether the car matches your real-world use. If you want a weekend cruiser or light collector piece, the naturally aspirated version offers easier maintenance and lower ownership costs. Turbo models may appeal to enthusiasts but require deeper mechanical knowledge and higher budgets for upkeep.
About the 1987 Nissan 300ZX
The 1987 Nissan 300ZX marked the second year of the Z31 generation, available in both naturally aspirated (NA) and turbocharged variants. It featured a sleek, aerodynamic design, pop-up headlights, and a reputation for balanced handling and refined performance—unusual for Japanese sports cars of its era. Under the hood, the NA model used a 3.0L V6 (VG30E) producing around 160 horsepower, while the turbo version (VG30ET) delivered approximately 200 hp, with stronger mid-range torque and improved highway passing ability.
This was a transitional period for Nissan’s engineering philosophy: moving from raw simplicity toward electronic integration. The 1987 model included early digital dash options, automatic climate control, and advanced (for the time) fuel injection systems. While not as extreme as later Z32 models, the '87 300ZX represents a sweet spot between analog feel and modern comfort.
Why the 1987 Nissan 300ZX Is Gaining Popularity
Lately, older Japanese performance cars have seen renewed attention due to shifting collector trends. Unlike European exotics that demand specialized tools and rare parts, many JDM vehicles—including the 1987 300ZX—are perceived as more approachable. Their robust engines, widespread availability of aftermarket support, and nostalgic design resonate with younger collectors entering the market.
This isn't just sentimentality—it reflects practical changes. Platforms like Bring a Trailer and Classic.com have made transactions more transparent, reducing fear around buying older cars sight-unseen. Additionally, social media communities on Reddit and YouTube provide real-time troubleshooting advice and restoration logs, lowering the barrier to ownership.
If you’re a typical user, you don’t need to overthink this. The rising visibility doesn’t mean every 300ZX is now valuable—it means more scrutiny is required when purchasing. A clean example today might attract multiple bidders online where five years ago it would’ve sat unsold at a local dealership.
Types and Variants
The 1987 Nissan 300ZX came in two primary configurations, each serving different purposes:
Non-Turbo (VG30E)
- Pros: Simpler mechanics, fewer sensors, easier DIY maintenance, lower insurance premiums, less prone to boost-related wear
- Cons: Less responsive off-idle, slower acceleration (0–60 mph in ~8 seconds), less desirable among serious collectors
Turbo (VG30ET)
- Pros: Stronger performance (0–60 in ~6 seconds), better highway overtaking, higher resale potential if well-maintained
- Cons: Complex turbo system, intercooler plumbing, increased oil consumption risk, higher repair costs, more sensitive to poor maintenance
Both versions were offered in 2-seater and 2+2 seating layouts, with manual and automatic transmissions. Interior trim levels varied, but all shared similar build quality and long-term durability concerns related to rubber seals and electrical connectors.
Key Features and Specifications to Evaluate
When assessing any 1987 300ZX, focus on these measurable aspects:
- Engine Condition: Listen for knocking or excessive lifter noise. Check oil consumption rate—if it burns a quart every 1,000 miles, expect major work soon.
- Rust Presence: Inspect frame rails, floor pans, suspension mounts, and wheel wells. Salt-belt states often yield worse corrosion.
- Maintenance Records: Full service history dramatically increases confidence. Look for timing belt replacements, coolant flushes, and transmission servicing.
- Originality: Matching numbers, factory wheels, unmodified interiors add value—but only matter if preservation is your goal.
- Transmission: Manual gearboxes tend to last longer than the RE4R01A automatic, which can develop slipping issues after 150k miles.
If you’re a typical user, you don’t need to overthink this. Most people won’t track their 300ZX or modify it heavily. Prioritize reliability over rarity. A fully documented NA model with recent brakes, belts, and fluids is far more usable than an untouched turbo car with unknown storage history.
Pros and Cons
| Category | Advantages | Drawbacks |
|---|---|---|
| Performance | Solid V6 power, smooth delivery, good weight distribution | Aged tires and suspension limit grip; original brakes fade quickly |
| Ownership Cost | Fuel economy ~18–22 mpg combined; moderate part availability | Specialty repairs (turbo, ECU) can exceed $1,000 easily |
| Driving Experience | Comfortable for daily driving; quiet cabin; supportive seats | No driver aids (ABS optional, no traction control); vague steering at low speeds |
| Resale & Collectibility | Stable demand among Z enthusiasts; turbo models appreciating slowly | Not yet mainstream collector status; limited auction volume compared to rivals |
How to Buy a 1987 Nissan 300ZX
Follow this checklist to avoid costly mistakes:
Step-by-Step Checklist
- Define Your Use Case: Will you drive weekly, store seasonally, or restore?
- Set a Realistic Budget: Include $1,500–$3,000 contingency for immediate repairs.
- Search Reputable Listings: Use Cars.com 1, Hagerty Marketplace 2, and Classic.com 3 instead of random Facebook posts.
- Inspect In Person: Bring a flashlight and crawl underneath. Look for frame rot, oil leaks, and patched paint.
- Verify Maintenance History: Ask for receipts, not just verbal claims.
- Test Drive Thoroughly: Engage all gears, listen for whines, test AC, windows, and dashboard warnings.
- Get a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI): Hire a mechanic familiar with 1980s Nissans—even $200 could save thousands.
Decision Flow
- If budget < $8,000 → consider only non-turbo models with under 100k miles and clean titles
- If budget $8,000–$15,000 → look for well-documented turbos or pristine NA cars
- If budget > $15,000 → verify authenticity before paying premium; compare recent auction results
Recommendations by Scenario
- ✅ First-Time Collector: Choose a non-turbo with service records and recent fluid work.
- 🔧 DIY Enthusiast: A running turbo project with known issues allows customization.
- 🛒 Budget Cruiser: Find a local trade with clean CARFAX and functional AC.
Red Flags / What to Avoid
- Unexplained gaps in ownership history
- Cars stored outdoors for years without engine starts
- Repainted entire bodies (may hide rust or accident damage)
- VIN mismatch or salvage title without full disclosure
- Priced significantly below market average—usually indicates hidden problems
This piece isn’t for keyword collectors. It’s for people who will actually use the product.
Price & Market Insights
As of mid-2024, the value of a 1987 Nissan 300ZX varies widely based on condition, drivetrain, and location. According to Hagerty and observed sales on public platforms:
- Project Cars / Non-Running: $2,000 – $6,000
- Average Condition (drivable, some wear): $8,000 – $12,000
- Well-Maintained Examples: $12,000 – $16,000
- Excellent or Low-Mileage Turbos: $18,000 – $25,000+
Prices may vary by region/model/seller. Coastal cities and warmer climates often see higher valuations due to lower rust incidence. Turbo models command a 20–40% premium over NA versions when equally preserved. Always cross-reference asking prices against completed auctions on Classic.com or Bring a Trailer to gauge true market value.
Top-Seller & Competitive Analysis
While the 1987 300ZX stands out in its niche, it competes indirectly with other late-1980s sports coupes. Below is a comparison of key attributes:
| Model | Reliability | Part Availability | Market Demand | Entry Price (2024) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1987 Nissan 300ZX NA | Medium | High | Steady | $8,000–$12,000 |
| 1987 Nissan 300ZX Turbo | Medium-Low | Medium | Growing | $12,000–$20,000+ |
| 1986 Toyota Supra (1G-GTE) | Medium-High | High | Strong | $10,000–$18,000 |
| 1987 Mazda RX-7 FC | Low (rotor concerns) | Medium | Strong | $9,000–$16,000 |
| 1987 Porsche 944 | Medium | Medium-Low | High | $12,000–$25,000 |
The 300ZX holds its own with strong build quality and emotional appeal, though it lacks the cult following of the RX-7 or the badge prestige of the 944. Its advantage lies in comfort and usability for longer drives—a trait often overlooked in vintage sports car evaluations.
Customer Feedback Synthesis
Based on owner discussions across forums like Reddit 4 and review articles such as TTAC 5:
- Common Praise: Smooth ride quality, comfortable interior, distinctive styling, ease of basic maintenance (on NA models).
- Frequent Complaints: Rust in subframes and inner fenders, aging rubber bushings leading to sloppy handling, intermittent electrical gremlins (digital dash failures, sensor errors), high cost of turbo-specific repairs.
- Surprising Insight: Many owners report better-than-expected fuel economy during highway cruising despite age.
If you’re a typical user, you don’t need to overthink this. The consensus isn’t about perfection—it’s about acceptance. These cars require ongoing care. Those who enjoy tinkering find deep satisfaction; those expecting turnkey reliability often become frustrated.
Sourcing & Supplier Tips
When sourcing parts or whole vehicles:
- Use Nissan OEM suppliers like Courtesy Parts or Modern Vintage Auto for trim pieces and gaskets.
- For performance upgrades or hard-to-find components, consider reputable vendors like Z1 Motorsports or 300ZX Depot.
- Join online communities (e.g., 300ZX Club of America) for member-only classifieds and technical advice.
- Avoid overseas sellers unless they offer return policies or third-party inspections.
Check seller reputation carefully. Private parties often offer better pricing than dealers, but lack warranties. If buying online, insist on a walkaround video and recent compression test results.
Maintenance, Safety & Legal Considerations
These cars predate modern safety standards. They lack airbags, ESC, or collision warning systems. While structurally sound, they perform poorly in modern crash tests. Use them appropriately—as weekend drivers, not family haulers.
Maintenance needs are predictable but unavoidable:
- Timing belt every 60k–90k miles (interference engine—failure destroys motor)
- Brake fluid flush every 2 years (hygroscopic fluid degrades seals)
- Rebuild door check straps and window regulators (common failure points)
- Replace fuel sender units if gauge fluctuates (fire hazard if ignored)
To confirm compliance with local regulations, verify emissions requirements—some states require annual testing even for antiques. Title laws also vary by state; ensure the vehicle has a clear VIN and hasn’t been previously flooded or totaled.
Conclusion
If you need a reliable, stylish classic with manageable upkeep, choose a well-documented 1987 Nissan 300ZX non-turbo in good condition under $12,000. If you're pursuing collectible appreciation or track use, only consider a turbo model with full records and recent mechanical work. For most users, the NA version delivers 90% of the experience at half the risk.
Everything You Need to Know
❓ How much is a 1987 Nissan 300ZX worth now?
A 1987 Nissan 300ZX typically ranges from $8,000 to $15,000 for average, drivable condition. Turbo models in excellent shape can reach $20,000–$25,000. Project cars may sell for under $6,000. Values depend heavily on mileage, rust, service history, and originality. To get a precise estimate, use Hagerty’s Valuation Tool 2 and compare completed sales on Classic.com.
❓ Is the 1987 300ZX reliable for daily driving?
It can be, but only if well-maintained. Common issues include rust, worn suspension bushings, and electrical glitches. If you’re a typical user, you don’t need to overthink this—choose a non-turbo with recent timing belt, brakes, and fluids. Daily driving is feasible with regular attention, but expect occasional breakdowns compared to modern cars.
❓ What should I watch for when buying a used 300ZX?
Inspect for rust (especially undercarriage and wheel arches), verify maintenance records, test all electronics, and check for oil leaks. Have a trusted mechanic perform a pre-purchase inspection. Avoid cars with rebuilt titles or inconsistent service history. When it’s worth caring about: if planning long-term ownership. When you don’t need to overthink it: if buying as a short-term fun car with repair budget.
❓ Are parts still available for the 1987 300ZX?
Yes, common wear items (filters, hoses, brakes) are readily available. OEM parts are still supplied through select distributors. Aftermarket support is strong for performance upgrades. Rare trim or electronics may require junkyard pulls or international sourcing. Confirm part compatibility before ordering—early Z31s had minor variations year-to-year.
❓ Should I buy a turbo or non-turbo 300ZX?
The non-turbo is simpler, cheaper to maintain, and sufficient for casual driving. The turbo offers better performance but requires more expertise and spending over time. When it’s worth caring about: if you plan modifications or value acceleration. When you don’t need to overthink it: if you want a dependable classic cruiser—choose the NA.
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